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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeTec View Post
    Yeah, I guess this platform can be a little finicky? I almost didn't respond because the first time I tried the system logged me out when I hit reply and the second time it "timed out" while typing. So I'm composing elsewhere... then cut and paste.

    That's great the gas guy is willing to check some things out for you. Big plus. Where your gas supply line (120 gal) connects to the pipe at the rear of the roaster there is a regulator mounted on the pipe itself... correct? So basically the regulator is between the main supply and the gas input pipe to roaster. Might be a Dwyer regulator?

    The gas tech can pop the cap on the top of the regulator to see if he can dial the pressure up anymore via the regulator while dialing down the pressure on the big tank. However...

    - If the big tank has to be at 13.5" for you to achieve 10-11" at the roaster that is likely pretty normal. A lot of people run their SF6 off a 5 gallon propane tank. Those have a low pressure regulator on the tank which is rated at 14" max. You should actually try running off a small tank to see if there is any difference? But before you experiment make sure (again) there is a gas regulator on your roaster separate from what's on your supply tank.

    - Another common issue that is seen more with natural gas is that when the supply line is too small in diameter and a sustainable pressure cannot be maintained. It's like putting a straw in your mouth with your finger on the end. Poof, release your finger and that pressure is gone because there is no volume or mass to sustain that pressure. People that have a gas line 2" diameter and larger usually have no issues.

    - I've worked with a shop on the east coast who got their roaster all set up, then started to experience low gas pressure issues weeks later only to find out that their city makes seasonal pressure adjustments to the cities gas supply in their building.

    Blue flame... great!

    Do you have a copy of the updated SF6 maintenance guide? The last tech guy at SFR put together a pretty detailed 2018 version before he jumped ship. They might send you a copy for the asking?

    And while your asking, see if SFR would be willing to send you a new hopper/cross over pipe assembly with the air-flow control? Then when it arrives you can just send your existing one back with minimal downtime for you. Just make sure the hole pattern measurement is the same on the mounting flange (4 bolts) because I suspect it is slightly different on the older roasters? I'd be curious what they would charge you on a trade-in?
    So funny how spot on you are with all of this post...

    Yes. My gas guy is cool. Each time he has been by to install the 120 tank. I do a poor over for him. He's pretty fascinated with the roaster never having seen one before. So he has taken extra time to check pressure all around the machine. He even checked the regulator.

    I did run off a 20gal tank while waiting for propane delivery. Similar results.

    I am not sure on the supply line diameter and will check today. But this roaster was converted from Nat Gas to Propane 2-3 years ago.

    That shop on the east coast saw as probably Boston. That same adjustment made a bunch of homes explode recently. Was in the news.

    Dimitri the SF sales guy emailed me the most recent maintenance guide. Following it to the letter, and broke out this maintenance onto my monthly log clipboard.

    Funny you mention the bolts lining up, because I asked if they could send a replacement hopper with valve, and that was why they were reluctant to do thisZaza telling me that he thinks the valve would not be the issue. Not sure if my issue is just too small for what is presently on their plate, or if there is something we are missing in our troubleshooting conversations.

    Now... I understand that welding is an art, and I know an artist welder. I was thinking of just ordering the valve & parts from San Fran and having my own guy put in this part since they are too busy for me. Thoughts?

  2. #12
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    Honestly, if you're able to hit 10 or 11" off the 120 gallon tank I wouldn't even be concerned with that. Move on to perfecting your roast!

    Dimitre is a good guy and I would bounce your questions off him while he is still an available source. I don't think SFR has a tech person anymore from what I hear. You fill out a form online and I guess they collectively see what answer they can come up with. Too bad.

    That was my next question... so you know anyone that welds or can do metal fabrication? That would be a super easy upgrade for anyone comfortable with metal. It's basically the same thing as a damper within your flu pipe on a wood burning stove. You will have a shaft that goes all the way through the cross over pipe, inside the cross over pipe a round disc is attached to the shaft. On one end of the shaft is a spring to keep tension on the assembly and other the other end is your handle. When the disc is laying horizontal air flow is open 100% and when the disc is vertical air flow is closed. So you only need 90 degrees of rotation. Attach the handle so that it reflects the position of the internal disc and you'll always know the position of the disc by your handle position.

    If you have that new manual in hand there are probably enough good images within to use as a guide.

    I'd go for it.

  3. #13
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    Like so...

    Name:  air-flow-SF6.jpg
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Size:  22.8 KB

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeTec View Post
    Like so...

    Name:  air-flow-SF6.jpg
Views: 69
Size:  22.8 KB
    Coffee Tec... you are the bomb. Thank you. I mean it.

    Matt

  5. #15
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    You're welcome.

    I think that's pretty self explanatory?

    And I believe SFR just welds the disc to the shaft, but I think it would be worth while to drill and tap two holes for screws for future ease of maintenance.

    I also show a nut on one end which means that would be threaded, so you could potentially start with a 6-7" long bolt...

    or...

    If you just use a piece of straight rod you could drill a hole and put a cotter pin in place of a nut.

  6. #16
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    Was the machine originally used with natural gas or propane ?

    Propane gas valves/orifaces are smaller in diameter than natural gas as it burns hotter. If originally set up for natural gas, you may have to switch out (two) of the valves. Really easy to do but need to be done by as gas guy

  7. #17
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    I thought he had mentioned fairly confidently that it was set up for propane?

    But for future exploration, the propane burner orifice is drilled to #69 and the natural gas #60.

    Also there is a metered connection where the gas line connects to the base of the burner manifold.

    If you are running propane that connector/ orifice is usually black (KR14), and for natural gas it is silver (A26 I believe?). Both come in the pilot assembly kit.

    And I am fairly certain the universal Honeywell pilot assembly is Q348U1009. SFR just bends the bracket to make them fit.
    Last edited by CoffeeTec; 10-08-2018 at 03:12 PM.

  8. #18
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    I am going to cross reference these connector numbers just to be sure it was set up correctly. I'm 90% sure everything checked out for propane, but it won't hurt to double check.

    It's unfortunate that the support team at SF didn't walk through this with as much detail as you both have, and is possibly the reason the guy I purchased this from did not transition to the SF25 opting for another brand. I can't hold the company accountable for things the 2 previous owners should have done with this roaster, but it is my hope that Aan Fran will step up to help me make sure their roaster lives up to its potential.

    Thanks again.

  9. #19
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    This was posted in 09.
    Pot marks on beans
    "Wine is for aging, not coffee."
    Ken Hutchinson, Starsky and Hutch

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by topher View Post
    This was posted in 09.
    Pot marks on beans
    Hey Topher! As you can see, I am still at it since we spoke several months ago. Again, thank you for taking the time to do that.

    Interesting. Slowing my roast time. Slow the roast without cooking the beans through. I will have to do some more digging on this. I am conditioned to hear 1st crack between 9-10 min. It's the same as telling an alpha runner to pace the first half of a road race. It will take fighting my instincts.

 

 
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