Newby needing help with roasting

jkaylor

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Feb 16, 2006
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Groton, CT
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Hello everyone,

I recently started roasting coffee using a Fresh Roast 8 air roaster that I got at a gargae sale. My question is this, for a good C+/FC roast, how long should I start the cool down after the 2nd crack starts. With my roaster, the 2nd crack (sounds like popcorn poping) starts about 4 minutes into the roast. Usually the beans, depending on the type they are, normally I l use a kenyan or sumatra, come out a medium brown color and have shiny spots on them. I usually get a good cup with them. I use a Chemex pour over pot and chemex filters. Just looking to get some information. thanks for the help.

Jeff
Groton, CT
 
jkaylor said:
My question is this, for a good C+/FC roast, how long should I start the cool down after the 2nd crack starts. With my roaster, the 2nd crack (sounds like popcorn poping) starts about 4 minutes into the roast.

With City plus to Full City, you should be on either side of the second crack, meaning you either don't get into second or just a few cracks.

If your second crack starts about 4 minutes into the roast, you need to lower your temp. Even with an air roaster that seems too fast.
 
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Thanks for the help ElPug. I don't know if my coffee roaster can have the temp adjusted. I did test the voltage in my house, and Im reading 127 volts. Do you think this could be causing the problem? Anyway, thanks for the help.

Jeff
 
Could he just pull back on the amount? If he has no temp adjustments the amount he puts in would control the roast time. Lesser volume=slower roast. I wonder if you just roast a little less if that would increase your roast time to closer to 6 minutes.
 
FPDoc78 where do you get your facts? I read you thought roasters make $8 an hour...now you are saying that if you put less coffee in a roaster that can not have its temp adjusted it should take less time? umm....lets see less mass...same temp...quicker roasts..that thar is why we be makin 8 bux an hour :p
 
yeah,
I would be in the camp of "smaller batch = less mass in the roaster which for a fixed heat input would mean more heat to the beans" You may want to look at buying a variac to reduce the voltage source for the roaster as a means of controlling the roast - I have heard that this can be done with some hot-air style roasters, but I have no experience with doing this.
 
Well topher you might want to actually read up on air roasters. They work just a hair differently than drum roasters. I do know a little bit about this particular roaster and it irritates me that you actually made me do research to prove you wrong.

From sweetmarias.com/fact sheet

NOTE ON ALL AIR ROASTERS: All air roasters use the beans to trap the hot air, so while it may seem counterintuitive, more beans will actually roast darker and less beans lighter. A too small batch may mean that the hot air blows past the beans and does not roast them at all.

And I merely googled the salary of roasters. If you make mass amounts of money roasting coffee for a living more power to you.

Thanks
 
After you get through FC, I have just turned the dial over to cool down for a few seconds then back to the minutes area to get the heat back on. You can play with that for a few roasts until you get a good time gap between FC and SC. You can also buy the 29 dollar digital temp probe from Linens and Things its the one that actually has a long metal probe and a max temp of just over 500 degrees, drill a small hole in the top of the Chaff collector and slip that probe in. Now you can monitor the temps for FC and SC and everything else. It works well.
 
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